I do both laser and sand etching of glass. Most often I combine the two for a different look and feel. I get more for the sand work so I offer the laser as a lower cost alternative uswing the rotary attachment. The problem I am having with most glass is flaking which makes for a poor appearance.

I have a 25 W and run at 100P/34S/1000PPI and 6 ID. I have a ULS M-300.

In most cases the laser-only work is acceptable but I think it can be better and not sure if I should go up or down or what I can change. When using tape and then blasting the laser work is not an issue as long as I cut through the tape.

Any advice greatly appreciated!

Jim

Jim,

Most of the time when I get flaky glass, it's because I'm hitting it too hard, or too slow.

I don't do a bunch of glasses, but I do run a lot of glass blocks. Even within the same lot, we get some inconsistency with the glass reaction. Some look great, some not so great.

Cody

Cody,

I would love to see some examples of your glass blocks. Can you post some? :-)

Thanks!

Jim

http://eternitycreations.com/glassblocks.htm

Here's a link to our website. We have a handful of examples there.

I haven't taken the time to get my site updated like I should... :-$

Thanks, Cody. Those look great. I bought some blocks for my wife to paint on and we inserted Christmas lights. I've drilled some holes for her and she goes to town! I've wanted to laser engrave on them but I haven't tried it, yet.

I engraved on some extremely thin Christmas ornaments and the result was mixed. The difference in the glass caused the finished product to vary. Is this happening with the blocks!?! I wonder if color filling may improve the look? Are you masking, using wet paper, soap and water, or just going at it? :S

Thanks for sharing!

Jim

Almost always, we just put the block into the laser and go for it.

We have a 35W Epilog TT, and I run these at 35% speed & 100% power. Max speed on my machine is 80 ips.

Cody, I'm inspired again. I think I'll throw my company's (day job!) logo on a block and take it to work. Subtle advertising can't hurt!

Thanks!

Jim

I do a LOT of jade glass engraving. With a ULS M 360 60 Watt unit I use:
80 Power
83 Speed
330 PPI
4 ID
Hope that helps. A lot depends on what type of glass you are engraving!
Jim

Jim,

Because all glass is not created equal. What we do is to change the graphic from a solid black to 60-70 % Grey level. This really helps with what you are experiencing.

Jim and Mike,

You mention 3 variables I haven't messed with:

lowering the PPI from 1000
lowering the ID from 6 (image density)
and decreasing the intensity of the black.

Looks like I have a lot try. Soooooo many combinations, and then add on the inconsistency of glass.........

Thanks!

JimK

lj,

Great stuff, I think this will help immensely.

Thanks!

Jim

I find that the highest resolution and lpi give the best result. That said, I cannot do a picture without some flaking at some density of the image. Vary the power and the greyness of the flaking area changes.

I have also done text by blasting away and leaving a carved look with no fracturing flakes.

Glass varies spot to spot. I even had an egg cup with a line of water glass in it. (The potash never made it to that spot in the mix. Leave out the potash and it dissolves in water.)

Philadelphia, PA (Really Bensalem)

When you finally understand it completely... it changes.