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<title>Engraving Etc. Forum - FAQ's - RSS Feed</title>
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<item>
  <guid isPermaLink="true">https://www.engravingetc.org:443/archive/index.php?webtag=EE&amp;msg=688.1</guid>
  <pubDate>Thu, 13 Jan 2005 10:52:53 UT</pubDate>
  <title>Putting your image on your profile</title>
  <link>https://www.engravingetc.org:443/archive/index.php?webtag=EE&amp;msg=688.1</link>
  <dc:creator>jbrewer (JEANETTEBREWER)</dc:creator>
  <description><![CDATA[]]></description>
  <comments>https://www.engravingetc.org:443/archive/index.php?webtag=EE&amp;msg=688.1</comments>
</item>
<item>
  <guid isPermaLink="true">https://www.engravingetc.org:443/archive/index.php?webtag=EE&amp;msg=427.1</guid>
  <pubDate>Wed, 27 Oct 2004 12:06:00 UT</pubDate>
  <title>Cutter types &#38; sizes</title>
  <link>https://www.engravingetc.org:443/archive/index.php?webtag=EE&amp;msg=427.1</link>
  <dc:creator>Harvey only (HARVEY-ONLY)</dc:creator>
  <description><![CDATA[I'll try to keep it short.

&#60;font size=&#34;3&#34; color=&#34;#0000FF&#34;&#62;Types of bits:&#60;/font&#62;
&#60;font size=&#34;3&#34;&#62;Drag:&#60;/font&#62; Sharp pointed diamond for scratching lines in metals. If used on stainless steel without a featherweight will damage the bit first letter, the very tip will chip and the bit will be bad for coated metls.

&#60;font size=&#34;3&#34;&#62;Bunishing:&#60;/font&#62; Diamond (also called rotating diamond (RD)), carbide: used for metals, especially black brass, for a thick line. You need diamond for aluminum. Use high spindle speed.

&#60;font size=&#34;3&#34;&#62;FLX:&#60;/font&#62; A cutting bit that removes material for engraving flexable sign stock and acrylic. Once used for acrylic, reserve for acrylic until resharpened or it will give poor results on flex. Use mediun spindle speed for flex, and fairly low spindle speed for acrylic. Keep acrylic cut shallow for each pass for best results, I go generally .004. [I used to have to go .022 a pass but that is a different story.]

&#60;font size=&#34;3&#34;&#62;BAL:&#60;/font&#62; Brass and aluminum material removal. Do not try to remove much in each pass, especially on aluminum, or you might get burrs at the edges.

&#60;font size=&#34;3&#34; color=&#34;#0000FF&#34;&#62;Bit Sizes:&#60;/font&#62;
The best formula for bit sizes is as follows. Divide line height by 8, then by the number of lines in the font. Then if you want the font solid, (e.g. Roman), multiply by about 1.3. If you want to see the lines, (e.g. Old English), divide by 3. For filled letters always select the first bit bigger than calculated, for lines always select the first bit smaller than calculated.

I keep columns of bits for Burnish, Acrylic, Flex, and BAL:
Rows of bits are in the following sizes:
.005, .010, .015, .022, .030, ,045, .060, (for a special job also .070), .090, .135.
That is a lot of bits but the final job shows the difference. When you order bits you can get them made in any size at no extra cost. (New Hermes may not supply the oddball sizes, but the cutter companies do.)
 
I think that is the nutshell version.

&#160;]]></description>
  <comments>https://www.engravingetc.org:443/archive/index.php?webtag=EE&amp;msg=427.1</comments>
</item>
<item>
  <guid isPermaLink="true">https://www.engravingetc.org:443/archive/index.php?webtag=EE&amp;msg=339.1</guid>
  <pubDate>Sun, 03 Oct 2004 10:02:49 UT</pubDate>
  <title>Getting Rid Of Popups</title>
  <link>https://www.engravingetc.org:443/archive/index.php?webtag=EE&amp;msg=339.1</link>
  <dc:creator>Harvey only (HARVEY-ONLY)</dc:creator>
  <description><![CDATA[I finally got WinXP working and bought Norton AV 2005.

Bad news, it now takes forever to boot and get on line since NAV2005.

Good news, it found 2 worms, and 96 other pieces of adware that the other program blockers did not. Only one it could not remove, ???

Also since installing I cannot access my email account. But the business and Wifey;s accounts work fine??? Settings look good but password is rejected. 

P.S. Email is back up to where it should be so I deleted the alternate address.
ÃÆÃâÃÂ¢Ã¢âÂ¬ÃÂ¡ÃÆÃ¢â¬Å¡ÃâÃÂ ]]></description>
  <comments>https://www.engravingetc.org:443/archive/index.php?webtag=EE&amp;msg=339.1</comments>
</item>
<item>
  <guid isPermaLink="true">https://www.engravingetc.org:443/archive/index.php?webtag=EE&amp;msg=137.1</guid>
  <pubDate>Wed, 21 Jul 2004 09:40:03 UT</pubDate>
  <title>Copyright Protection &#38; Infringement</title>
  <link>https://www.engravingetc.org:443/archive/index.php?webtag=EE&amp;msg=137.1</link>
  <dc:creator>Michael</dc:creator>
  <description><![CDATA[Just my opinion, but when you are offered or receive something of value, requested or not,  from some one else, it is always correct to say thank you.

Keep smilin,
Michael]]></description>
  <comments>https://www.engravingetc.org:443/archive/index.php?webtag=EE&amp;msg=137.1</comments>
</item>
<item>
  <guid isPermaLink="true">https://www.engravingetc.org:443/archive/index.php?webtag=EE&amp;msg=40.1</guid>
  <pubDate>Thu, 20 May 2004 13:57:49 UT</pubDate>
  <title>Bookmarking a Thread</title>
  <link>https://www.engravingetc.org:443/archive/index.php?webtag=EE&amp;msg=40.1</link>
  <dc:creator>Harvey only (HARVEY-ONLY)</dc:creator>
  <description><![CDATA[When you read a thread, you can add it to a bookmark file.

At the bottom of the thread there is a 'Make Sticky' selection. Set the date for when the sticky ends and click on 'Make Sticky.

Now you can access these threads at any time by using the discussion dropdown and selecting 'Sticky Threads'.

Great feature.

&#160;]]></description>
  <comments>https://www.engravingetc.org:443/archive/index.php?webtag=EE&amp;msg=40.1</comments>
</item>
<item>
  <guid isPermaLink="true">https://www.engravingetc.org:443/archive/index.php?webtag=EE&amp;msg=13.1</guid>
  <pubDate>Tue, 11 May 2004 19:16:19 UT</pubDate>
  <title>Labor Cost Calculation</title>
  <link>https://www.engravingetc.org:443/archive/index.php?webtag=EE&amp;msg=13.1</link>
  <dc:creator>Harvey only (HARVEY-ONLY)</dc:creator>
  <description><![CDATA[Click the link to download the Labor Cost Calculation PDF file.

&#60;pHarvey's Tips Page

I finally got the link to work. It only took four hours to figure out how to get it stored on my site. Stupid thing will only upload as a web gem. But now all you have to do is click on it and it downloads into a new browser window in PDF format and can be saved.

&#160;]]></description>
  <comments>https://www.engravingetc.org:443/archive/index.php?webtag=EE&amp;msg=13.1</comments>
</item>
<item>
  <guid isPermaLink="true">https://www.engravingetc.org:443/archive/index.php?webtag=EE&amp;msg=12.1</guid>
  <pubDate>Tue, 11 May 2004 19:08:30 UT</pubDate>
  <title>Shear Tips</title>
  <link>https://www.engravingetc.org:443/archive/index.php?webtag=EE&amp;msg=12.1</link>
  <dc:creator>Harvey only (HARVEY-ONLY)</dc:creator>
  <description><![CDATA[MATERIAL SHEAR TIPS -
OVERVIEW

1) Do not trust the ruler.

2) Do not trust it to be square.

3) There is a major difference between a metal shear and a
flex shear.

4) Unisub FR may be shear cut under certain conditions.

TIPS

1) Unless the ruler is engraved it is
made of a plastic material pressed onto metal. It
streaches when pressed. I have 2 trimmers and both rulers are off
in different places. It may be perfect at 2&#34; and 8&#34; but
can be 1/16&#34; off at 6&#34;. Cut flex strips about 1&#34;
to 2&#34; wide of precise lengths that you use by setting the
stop with a metal ruler and then verifing the length. This will
be the lengths that you will cut in the future so be precise (or
the faintest bit under to guarantee not being 1/32&#34; short in
the last cut of a section of a sheet). Carefully bond them
together (using Res-N-Bond or equivalent) going from the longest
to the shortest to make a pile. Be sure that the common edge is
even. This block can be placed easily against the blad at the
length that you want while you set the stop. Due to there being a
longer strip on top of the length that you want it is easy to
hold in place. I Score lines on the surface to show exactly there
the under strips are and mark them to make it super to place in
the proper place. If you use many lengths better to make a few
blocks than to go over 1/4&#34; total thickness. I have one for
1/4 &#38; 3/4 markings and another for 1/2 and even inch
markings, plus some for oddball lengths that I commonly use.

2) Invest a very small amount in a
machinists square. It is an L shaped picec of steel one
foot by eight inches. It is thick enough to remain square. Align
your ruler/guide with this. After aligning you can test by
cutting a 6 x 6 piece of material by shearing each side in a
clockwise progression. You will never get it perfectly square but
you can see how far off it can become, shoot for very little. Cut
a piece of scrap about 9 x 9 (hopefully you do not have many of
this size scrap) mark the corner of the last cut and side that
was against the guide. This makes an excellant push/align guide
for last pieces of a set of cuts. When you buy flex have it split
lengthwise unless you have a 48&#34; shear or need things bigger
than 12&#34; in both directions, which needs hand cutting.

3) The shape of the blade is critical
for the material being cut. Plastic ain't metal. A plastic
blade is very sharp so as to cut into the plastic as it shears. A
metal blade is much blunter to tear the metal apart at the cut.
Metal will easily chip a hardened plastic cutting blade. (I
believe that the bottom blade is the same.)

4) Yes Unisub FR can be shear cut
somewhat. You must use a metal shear, the fiberglass
reinforcement may microchip the plastic blade. The trick is to
have the material at 80 to 90 degrees Farenheit. Too cold and you
get bad chipping and a very rough edge. Too warm and you may put
a crack at the edge of the surface at the cut. Too hot and the
plastic will powder at the edge from being torn by the fiberglass
as it is being sheared. If you need a perfect edge for a badge
you will have to quick sand the edge.

&#160;]]></description>
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