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<item>
  <guid isPermaLink="true">https://www.engravingetc.org:443/archive/index.php?webtag=EE&amp;msg=5975.1</guid>
  <pubDate>Wed, 28 Mar 2007 09:33:46 UT</pubDate>
  <title>Alumamark Settings</title>
  <link>https://www.engravingetc.org:443/archive/index.php?webtag=EE&amp;msg=5975.1</link>
  <dc:creator>Hermes (HERMESSANDOVAL)</dc:creator>
  <description><![CDATA[I've had my own share of mishaps with alumamark, it's a really delicate product to engrave, but once I got it engraving alright it's been very popular with the clientelle. I took the advice from the brochure that came with it when i bought it from johnson plastics and it worked just fine for me with the ULS 25e running at 55pwr and 80spd 500dpi.

Bieb you should check this very interesting post about true focus distance;
http://engravingetc.org/forum/index.php?webtag=EE&#38;msg=1672.5]]></description>
  <comments>https://www.engravingetc.org:443/archive/index.php?webtag=EE&amp;msg=5975.1</comments>
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<item>
  <guid isPermaLink="true">https://www.engravingetc.org:443/archive/index.php?webtag=EE&amp;msg=5967.1</guid>
  <pubDate>Wed, 07 Feb 2007 11:02:20 UT</pubDate>
  <title>Optic acrylic settings.............</title>
  <link>https://www.engravingetc.org:443/archive/index.php?webtag=EE&amp;msg=5967.1</link>
  <dc:creator>Joe (SMITTY61)</dc:creator>
  <description><![CDATA[Brian,

I can't compare with your 30w cause I have a 100. But the ratio I drop to do acrylic from glass is about 75% less the power I use on glass. I keep my speed the same. On a 1oow I use 95 power and 90 speed. On acrylic I use 23 power and 90 speed. Approximate drop of 75% in power using the same speed. Mybe on your 30w try 20% power using the same speed. Acrylic typically looks more frosted than glass. I kind of like acrylic results more than glass results. Good luck!]]></description>
  <comments>https://www.engravingetc.org:443/archive/index.php?webtag=EE&amp;msg=5967.1</comments>
</item>
<item>
  <guid isPermaLink="true">https://www.engravingetc.org:443/archive/index.php?webtag=EE&amp;msg=5940.1</guid>
  <pubDate>Wed, 07 Feb 2007 08:45:51 UT</pubDate>
  <title>River Rock Setting</title>
  <link>https://www.engravingetc.org:443/archive/index.php?webtag=EE&amp;msg=5940.1</link>
  <dc:creator>Barbara (RGILE)</dc:creator>
  <description><![CDATA[HI Bob,
I did the Rock and it came out very nice. I used your setting of 100Power and 10 speed and went over it two time. I then spray with gold spray paint, but cleanup was a little difficult. 
I went over it after taking off the tape, and some of the paint got a little dull.
It still looks good though. I just have a hard time cleaning it up.
Thanks again for helping me. Now I know how to do it. Just have to get better and cleaning it up after taking off the tape.
Barb]]></description>
  <comments>https://www.engravingetc.org:443/archive/index.php?webtag=EE&amp;msg=5940.1</comments>
</item>
<item>
  <guid isPermaLink="true">https://www.engravingetc.org:443/archive/index.php?webtag=EE&amp;msg=5488.1</guid>
  <pubDate>Tue, 12 Dec 2006 21:57:01 UT</pubDate>
  <title>Engraving Spectrum Lights</title>
  <link>https://www.engravingetc.org:443/archive/index.php?webtag=EE&amp;msg=5488.1</link>
  <dc:creator>Rose (RSLIEPKA)</dc:creator>
  <description><![CDATA[Well I give up on the blue which means I certainly won't try the red.  Maybe it is just me but I don't think I should have to waste half of what I buy to make it work.  Or, I could be forewarned before I buy the product.   It would be very much appreciated.

I am hoping the customer will be happy using the black.
Thanks for all the suggestions.]]></description>
  <comments>https://www.engravingetc.org:443/archive/index.php?webtag=EE&amp;msg=5488.1</comments>
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<item>
  <guid isPermaLink="true">https://www.engravingetc.org:443/archive/index.php?webtag=EE&amp;msg=5185.1</guid>
  <pubDate>Wed, 25 Oct 2006 12:52:05 UT</pubDate>
  <title>Photo Grav Black Granite</title>
  <link>https://www.engravingetc.org:443/archive/index.php?webtag=EE&amp;msg=5185.1</link>
  <dc:creator>Stunt Engraver (DGL)</dc:creator>
  <description><![CDATA[Lovin' that news Nancy. :-)&#160;

Congratulations!]]></description>
  <comments>https://www.engravingetc.org:443/archive/index.php?webtag=EE&amp;msg=5185.1</comments>
</item>
<item>
  <guid isPermaLink="true">https://www.engravingetc.org:443/archive/index.php?webtag=EE&amp;msg=1672.1</guid>
  <pubDate>Sun, 08 Oct 2006 18:40:25 UT</pubDate>
  <title>ULS Laser Settings</title>
  <link>https://www.engravingetc.org:443/archive/index.php?webtag=EE&amp;msg=1672.1</link>
  <dc:creator>Harvey only (HARVEY-ONLY)</dc:creator>
  <description><![CDATA[Great suggestion, David already took your tip, thanks.]]></description>
  <comments>https://www.engravingetc.org:443/archive/index.php?webtag=EE&amp;msg=1672.1</comments>
</item>
<item>
  <guid isPermaLink="true">https://www.engravingetc.org:443/archive/index.php?webtag=EE&amp;msg=4999.1</guid>
  <pubDate>Tue, 03 Oct 2006 15:37:47 UT</pubDate>
  <title>Anyone Mark on High Purity Ceramic</title>
  <link>https://www.engravingetc.org:443/archive/index.php?webtag=EE&amp;msg=4999.1</link>
  <dc:creator>1FAST-KAT (TAYLORBRANDING)</dc:creator>
  <description><![CDATA[Thanks for the link, it should help me out. We do have access to some scrap pieces so we will be able to play around. The biggest concern is not going to deep that it causes particle problems. If all goes well they will have more work for us. I will let you know how it goes.]]></description>
  <comments>https://www.engravingetc.org:443/archive/index.php?webtag=EE&amp;msg=4999.1</comments>
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<item>
  <guid isPermaLink="true">https://www.engravingetc.org:443/archive/index.php?webtag=EE&amp;msg=4838.1</guid>
  <pubDate>Thu, 14 Sep 2006 13:01:24 UT</pubDate>
  <title>Maximum Engraving speed of legend 32</title>
  <link>https://www.engravingetc.org:443/archive/index.php?webtag=EE&amp;msg=4838.1</link>
  <dc:creator>Pedaler (ROYBREWER)</dc:creator>
  <description><![CDATA[Mark,

Although he hasn't fille out his profile yet,  I'm almost sure  that James has a Legend 32 which is slightly slower than the Legen32 EX.]]></description>
  <comments>https://www.engravingetc.org:443/archive/index.php?webtag=EE&amp;msg=4838.1</comments>
</item>
<item>
  <guid isPermaLink="true">https://www.engravingetc.org:443/archive/index.php?webtag=EE&amp;msg=4764.1</guid>
  <pubDate>Tue, 05 Sep 2006 12:47:13 UT</pubDate>
  <title>Universal Laser Tube charging</title>
  <link>https://www.engravingetc.org:443/archive/index.php?webtag=EE&amp;msg=4764.1</link>
  <dc:creator>James (TILER02)</dc:creator>
  <description><![CDATA[Thanks Mike]]></description>
  <comments>https://www.engravingetc.org:443/archive/index.php?webtag=EE&amp;msg=4764.1</comments>
</item>
<item>
  <guid isPermaLink="true">https://www.engravingetc.org:443/archive/index.php?webtag=EE&amp;msg=2095.1</guid>
  <pubDate>Tue, 27 Jun 2006 16:17:33 UT</pubDate>
  <title>Muscle</title>
  <link>https://www.engravingetc.org:443/archive/index.php?webtag=EE&amp;msg=2095.1</link>
  <dc:creator>Hale</dc:creator>
  <description><![CDATA[Another possibility is that the new Laserpro has a colliminator or another lense that focuses the beam tighter.  That would help if cut better.  The beam on my 60 watt Epilog is a lot smaller than the beam was on the 45 watt machine it replaced.  I can see the difference and it cuts a lot cleaner, especailly on wood.  I just cut out a couple of the epilog bird homes from 1/4&#34; poplar I got at Lowe's and no smoke residue even without taping.  

Hale Reider
To Be Cherished]]></description>
  <comments>https://www.engravingetc.org:443/archive/index.php?webtag=EE&amp;msg=2095.1</comments>
</item>
<item>
  <guid isPermaLink="true">https://www.engravingetc.org:443/archive/index.php?webtag=EE&amp;msg=4068.1</guid>
  <pubDate>Thu, 15 Jun 2006 13:39:25 UT</pubDate>
  <title>Too Much Laser Power</title>
  <link>https://www.engravingetc.org:443/archive/index.php?webtag=EE&amp;msg=4068.1</link>
  <dc:creator>Stunt Engraver (DGL)</dc:creator>
  <description><![CDATA[Dave,

In an unofficial survey a friend of mine took, while visiting shops in the San Diego, CA area, he found that it was extremely common to find multiple laser machines, in those businesses, who used lasers.]]></description>
  <comments>https://www.engravingetc.org:443/archive/index.php?webtag=EE&amp;msg=4068.1</comments>
</item>
<item>
  <guid isPermaLink="true">https://www.engravingetc.org:443/archive/index.php?webtag=EE&amp;msg=3990.1</guid>
  <pubDate>Sat, 03 Jun 2006 19:00:48 UT</pubDate>
  <title>HDPE - Anyone tried?</title>
  <link>https://www.engravingetc.org:443/archive/index.php?webtag=EE&amp;msg=3990.1</link>
  <dc:creator>Stunt Engraver (DGL)</dc:creator>
  <description><![CDATA[Dave,

I knew it was one of those &#34;gens.&#34; 

Fire in the hole!!  Hole in the roof!!  &#62;.&#60;&#160;]]></description>
  <comments>https://www.engravingetc.org:443/archive/index.php?webtag=EE&amp;msg=3990.1</comments>
</item>
<item>
  <guid isPermaLink="true">https://www.engravingetc.org:443/archive/index.php?webtag=EE&amp;msg=2084.1</guid>
  <pubDate>Sat, 08 Oct 2005 01:45:19 UT</pubDate>
  <title>LAMA Settings</title>
  <link>https://www.engravingetc.org:443/archive/index.php?webtag=EE&amp;msg=2084.1</link>
  <dc:creator>Doc (GREAT_ATLANTIC)</dc:creator>
  <description><![CDATA[It sure has been tough finding any information about LAMA, even from Johnson Plastics, the distributor. I bought 1 sheet in each of the four colors based on the results I've seen in the ads. The unengraved sheets look absolutely great, but even though these were for tests, I didn't want to waste too much of the material.

A salesman at Johnson passed me along to a tech who was helpful, but almost no information on the product. The only numbers he had were for a 25 watt Epilog, set at 100% power and 25% speed. At 45 watts, the thinking was to simply increase the speed proportionately for the same results.

The initial tests were pretty disappointing. Using Escher's self-portrait in the globe (lots of different contrasts), everything overburned to 60% speed. Faster than that, the image came through but without any real tonal qualities. So I went the other way on the speed/power ratio....and voila! Power is the variable.

So for a 45 watt Epilog, the setting that seemed to work best across all 4 shades of the LAMA is 100% speed / 35% power. Results are actually very nice, picking up even the smallest details and engraving in sharp tones of white. I'd like to hear if anyone else has had similar success, or if this was just Friday luck.]]></description>
  <comments>https://www.engravingetc.org:443/archive/index.php?webtag=EE&amp;msg=2084.1</comments>
</item>
<item>
  <guid isPermaLink="true">https://www.engravingetc.org:443/archive/index.php?webtag=EE&amp;msg=1084.1</guid>
  <pubDate>Mon, 18 Apr 2005 21:57:06 UT</pubDate>
  <title>Anodized Aluminum</title>
  <link>https://www.engravingetc.org:443/archive/index.php?webtag=EE&amp;msg=1084.1</link>
  <dc:creator>laserman (MIKEMAC)</dc:creator>
  <description><![CDATA[Ken,

I would just use an old soft toothbrush with the alcohol It should work fine for that.]]></description>
  <comments>https://www.engravingetc.org:443/archive/index.php?webtag=EE&amp;msg=1084.1</comments>
</item>
<item>
  <guid isPermaLink="true">https://www.engravingetc.org:443/archive/index.php?webtag=EE&amp;msg=1082.1</guid>
  <pubDate>Tue, 05 Apr 2005 13:33:29 UT</pubDate>
  <title>Wood Settings</title>
  <link>https://www.engravingetc.org:443/archive/index.php?webtag=EE&amp;msg=1082.1</link>
  <dc:creator>Ken D. (KDEVORY)</dc:creator>
  <description><![CDATA[I found the speed is for wood is not too critical. Slowing it down will give more burn and a darker image. (Important for darker darks) The brightest part of the image will be the wood itself. Maple gives better contrast than Alder.

I did not like the image as much when dark areas are engraved away, but the depth of burn was necessary for contrast. I felt this approach gave a good trade-off. 

I also tried using the PhotoGraV output as a mask for the original picture, which was then engraved using the drivers 3D setting. It gives the PhotoGraV image, but lighter in the lighter parts of the image. It is more work/time to create final image to send to laser. If anyone tries it, you will need to adjust the grayscale histogram prior to applying the mask. You'll need to &#34;crop&#34; the whites. (Anything lighter then X should be set to X) - if you don't make this adjustment you will loose detail in the lighter areas.

I am hoping people will post their settings and experiences/opinions to this thread. Lets see what this forum is capable of.]]></description>
  <comments>https://www.engravingetc.org:443/archive/index.php?webtag=EE&amp;msg=1082.1</comments>
</item>
<item>
  <guid isPermaLink="true">https://www.engravingetc.org:443/archive/index.php?webtag=EE&amp;msg=1083.1</guid>
  <pubDate>Mon, 04 Apr 2005 20:07:09 UT</pubDate>
  <title>Laser Max,Lights,Mag</title>
  <link>https://www.engravingetc.org:443/archive/index.php?webtag=EE&amp;msg=1083.1</link>
  <dc:creator>Ken D. (KDEVORY)</dc:creator>
  <description><![CDATA[Photo settings I was playing with:

ULS Versa 40W (max speed: 60ips)

Photoshop
Adjust photo until it looks best.

Driver
Power = 14 or 15% depending on material. (The material is very sensitive to changes in this setting.)
Speed = 80%
LPI = 500 (-5), PPI = 1,000 (Versa default)
Dithering = Halftone (Built into driver)
Image Enhancement (I used default values, optimizing will help)

Laser
1.5&#34; lens]]></description>
  <comments>https://www.engravingetc.org:443/archive/index.php?webtag=EE&amp;msg=1083.1</comments>
</item>
<item>
  <guid isPermaLink="true">https://www.engravingetc.org:443/archive/index.php?webtag=EE&amp;msg=887.1</guid>
  <pubDate>Fri, 25 Feb 2005 18:14:51 UT</pubDate>
  <title>ULS Driver - Image Enhancement</title>
  <link>https://www.engravingetc.org:443/archive/index.php?webtag=EE&amp;msg=887.1</link>
  <dc:creator>laserman (MIKEMAC)</dc:creator>
  <description><![CDATA[Ken,

Your descriptions are pretty accurate and very technical. Let me try to explain how they will help you and everyone else.

Problem #1 Speed, Problem #2 Fonts, Problem #3 thin line and Upper and lower case letters.

These were the reason behind the Image Enhancements.

Please note that these enhancements will only be available for XP Driver and depending on the version of the driver. The older versions were done manually The newer version is done automatically.

O.K. What do these do:

Contrast- This adjustment is for the HIGH DENSITY AREA of the text.

Example: The Quick Brown Fox Jumps Over The Lazy Dog.

When you look at this line of text you have two distinct areas of the text. One being the Ascenders and descenders and the other being the High density area ( the letters that are closest together) (uick). This is the area that the contrast effects.

Definition- Is the adjustment for the descenders and ascenders.

Density- This should be left at 100 once you set the Contrast and definition. If the density is to high the letters will seam to be FATTER or bolder. By reducing the density you effect the sharpness of the character. If you reduce the density to much your letters will start to look pixelized. You should only have to adjust this in 5% increments to start to notice a difference. Once you get the right density setting then save your power/speed setting for the material (plastic, wood, etc.)
Then all of the image enhancements are saved with that setting.
We have found that we don't adjust this setting very often.

Believe it or not it does work with all kinds of different materials and the results are really nice.

The way to set it up right is to find the minimum power setting at the optimum speed to mark the material. Example engravers plastic set the power to get a solid white area at the fastest possible speed. Then go in and check the enhancement box and calculate. Then run a sample of times new roman upper and lower case from 12 point down to 8 point high text.

Get out your loom and check it out it is amazing how clean even the small text come in.

You should have a Image Enhancement setting for all your materials you work with, And yes it does effect photos as well.

This is a wonderful tool in this driver and everyone should take full advantage of it. It really works.

As for your other post regarding power and speed settings and there functions. I will work on that and reply as soon as I can. ]]></description>
  <comments>https://www.engravingetc.org:443/archive/index.php?webtag=EE&amp;msg=887.1</comments>
</item>
<item>
  <guid isPermaLink="true">https://www.engravingetc.org:443/archive/index.php?webtag=EE&amp;msg=886.1</guid>
  <pubDate>Fri, 25 Feb 2005 15:53:50 UT</pubDate>
  <title>Scanning Photos - ULS</title>
  <link>https://www.engravingetc.org:443/archive/index.php?webtag=EE&amp;msg=886.1</link>
  <dc:creator>Ken D. (KDEVORY)</dc:creator>
  <description><![CDATA[Mike,

Can you post guidelines for the different image density setting on the ULS machines. (Assume driver is being used for dithering.)

example (Values may not be correct):

Setting: -5 (500LPI)
Dithering: Halftone
Scan: 150-333 dpi, 250 best
Materials: Engravers Plastic, Anodized Aluminum

I left out PPI since I have a Versa and it's ignored for raster. Including it might help people with the other ULS machines. (What is the LPI for Image density -1; different people, who should know, give me different answers.)]]></description>
  <comments>https://www.engravingetc.org:443/archive/index.php?webtag=EE&amp;msg=886.1</comments>
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