From: LaZerDude (C_BURKE) [#23]
2 Apr 2005
To: UCONN Dave & Lynn too (DANDL48) [#22] 2 Apr 2005
Dave,
Top to bottom is 1.25". side to side is 1".
The challenge is that the font size gets smaller near the bottom and I cannot get a clean blast for the font. The logo comes out great. I don't know if it would help if I could get the mask to lay flat.....
From: UCONN Dave & Lynn too (DANDL48) [#24]
2 Apr 2005
To: LaZerDude (C_BURKE) [#23] 2 Apr 2005
I see.
You do have a rotary attachment for the laser?
Dave
Message 1040.25 was deleted
From: Engravin' Dave (DATAKES) [#26]
2 Apr 2005
To: LaZerDude (C_BURKE) [#23] 2 Apr 2005
Chuck,
The logo you sent me for the glasses had very small, fine letters for the last two lines. Is your customer flexible enough to allow you to enlarge the image at all, or is the glass restricting you to this dimension?
I bought my new inkjet yesterday and will be doing a RapidMask test for you (and me) this afternoon. I will post the results, with or without success. I will also report the PIR Factor, if I feel it is warranted. PIR Factor = Pain In Rear.
From: UCONN Dave & Lynn too (DANDL48) [#27]
2 Apr 2005
To: Engravin' Dave (DATAKES) [#26] 2 Apr 2005
David,
What kind of an inkjet did you get? Pigmented Inks?
Dave
From: Engravin' Dave (DATAKES) [#28]
2 Apr 2005
To: UCONN Dave & Lynn too (DANDL48) [#27] 2 Apr 2005
Dave,
I ended up getting an Epson C86. At the store I was able to print a sample image on AccuArt 2 and it was very opaque. I am still not sold on RapidMask resist yet, so I wasn't in the spirit to spend much money on an inkjet.
From: UCONN Dave & Lynn too (DANDL48) [#29]
2 Apr 2005
To: Engravin' Dave (DATAKES) [#28] 2 Apr 2005
What don't you like about it?
From: Engravin' Dave (DATAKES) [#30]
2 Apr 2005
To: UCONN Dave & Lynn too (DANDL48) [#29] 2 Apr 2005
Dave,
Today is the first serious effort I have made to get RapidMask figured out. I wanted to take on the challenge of Chuck's image on a compound angled wine glass.
I first printed out the image on AccuArt 2 and exposed the Rapid Mask HD. Placed the developed resist onto the glass, masked the exposed areas and blasted.
Knowing that this was a 2-Mil material, I blasted lightly by holding the nozzle much further away from the glass than I typically do. Even when taking this precaution, there was a thin area of the image with larger etched areas on each side that blew out. This happened on two different attempts.
I then wanted to see what would happen with the RapidMask HT, which is a 4-Mil material. At the point of this writing, I am still trying to determine the exposure time to get the image area brittle enough to where it will actually blast away.
I have a NuArc 26-1K exposure unit. Photobrasive recommends a setting of 60 integrator units. I did their recommended test to determine the proper exposure level for my particular unit and I ended up at 75 integrator units. I expose the film, tried to blast, and still not brittle enough.
I also had a problem with pitting around the image. I am sure this would even be more pronounced on optical crystal.
I really like the idea of a no-wash-out resist, but if this material has a higher risk for blow-out and it is tempermental, I may find it difficult to make the change.
I am open to change, but it has to be a positive one.
EDITED: 2 Apr 2005 by DATAKES
From: LaZerDude (CHUCK_BURKE) [#31]
2 Apr 2005
To: UCONN Dave & Lynn too (DANDL48) [#24] 2 Apr 2005
Dave,
I do have a rotary attachment for my laser.
From: LaZerDude (CHUCK_BURKE) [#32]
2 Apr 2005
To: Engravin' Dave (DATAKES) [#26] 2 Apr 2005
David,
The original file (eps) is the one THEY gave me. The cdr file is as large as I could get it and still meet their requirments.
The glasses that came from LIBBEY, I have come to the conculsion, are acid etched or something, so it is next to impossible for me to match that.
Let me know how it works out for you.
It took me about a nano second to figure out PIR. Trust me, the PIR is very HIGH!
From: Engravin' Dave (DATAKES) [#33]
2 Apr 2005
To: LaZerDude (CHUCK_BURKE) [#32] Unread
Chuck,
Because of the shape of the image, I was able to place the photo resist on the glass without much problem. The key is to force the buckling effect of the resist from the center of the top and bottom out to the left and right. This allows the image area to lay flat on the glass and forces the buckled areas to the left and right where there is no image.
From: precisionlaser [#34]
2 Apr 2005
To: Engravin' Dave (DATAKES) [#30] 2 Apr 2005
Hi, David.
I'm surely no expert, but I've exposed Rapidmask HT for 3 minutes (on my Letralite) and it seems almost perfect. The dark areas will snap in two when bent and when I'm blasting, those areas blast away almost immediately. I've had no blow outs yet, either. I wonder if part of the problem could be the freshness of the resist. Does your resist have a "born on" date? ;-)
I don't know how to convert from 3 mins on a Letralite to your exposure unit, but the documentation does state that Rapidmask is very tolerant to overexposure, so just expose away and see what happens. They say that when you can get the dark areas to break with a snap when you bend them, that this is when the exposure is correct.
Mark
From: Engravin' Dave (DATAKES) [#35]
2 Apr 2005
To: precisionlaser [#34] 2 Apr 2005
Mark,
That will be the plan during my next testing period. My most recent results have all the symptoms of inadequate exposure.
Are you using AccuArt 2 and an inkjet for creating your negatives? What inkjet and inks are you using?
ÂÂÂÂÂ
EDITED: 2 Apr 2005 by DATAKES
From: precisionlaser [#36]
2 Apr 2005
To: Engravin' Dave (DATAKES) [#35] 2 Apr 2005
Like you, I have a C86 and I'm using the partial black cartridge we received in the box. We are using AccuArt 2. The only thing that may be different besides the exposure time is that I had our graphic artist set up a special printer setup for the accuart to improve the opacity of the black on the film. It sounds like that wasn't your problem, though.
Seriously, how old is your RapidMask? I think I remember your mentioning this in an earlier post...maybe it's aged a little and that has affected the adhesive (?). Also, when I apply the RapidMask, I use the wet application method and that "may" improve the adhesion...don't know because I've never been able to apply it dry right the first time. I got a cheap misting bottle, filled it full of tap water and after removing the slip sheet, I spritz the mask and apply it to the glass, move it around and then squeegee all the water out pretty hard to get all the bubbles out. I do let it sit for a few minutes while I am prepping other pieces, and perhaps this lets the adhesive "set up" or something. One of the very nice things about using the water assisted mounting method is that it's very easy to work the bubbles out so you have a perfectly smooth surface on the glass...at least for flat surfaces.
As you can tell, I'm a real authority on this! HA.
From: Engravin' Dave (DATAKES) [#37]
2 Apr 2005
To: precisionlaser [#36] 2 Apr 2005
Mark,
I would guess that it is less than two months old. If it can't handle a shelf life of six months I'll be sticking with my old washout resist that appears to have a shelf life of years rather than months.
Have you had any problem with small amounts of pitting around your image? This may be caused by not achieving an opaque enough print.
Do you mind sharing what your graphic artist did to improve the opacity of the print?
From: UCONN Dave & Lynn too (DANDL48) [#38]
2 Apr 2005
To: Engravin' Dave (DATAKES) [#30] 2 Apr 2005
David,
For Rapidmask I blast at 22PSI with 180 grit Silica carbide, what are you using and what are the settings. Another thing you need to check is air bubbles under the areas to be blasted. if not poped it can cause blowouts.
Dave
From: precisionlaser [#39]
2 Apr 2005
To: Engravin' Dave (DATAKES) [#37] 2 Apr 2005
I don't mind sharing the printer settings at all...but I'll have to wait til Monday when I get back in the office. I'm sure that shelf life is not the problem if it's only two months old (it better not be!).
I blast with 30 PSI or just a tad higher with 180 grit. I hold the nozzle about 6 inches away and try to keep the nozzle perpendicular to the substrate...I'm sure none of this is new to you...I can't think of why you're having a problem.
As for edge pitting, no problems that I've noticed, but perhaps I need to look harder.
Mark
From: LaZerDude (C_BURKE) [#40]
2 Apr 2005
To: Engravin' Dave (DATAKES) [#33] 2 Apr 2005
David, I was able to get the image to lay flat also, BUT I could not get the lettering to lay flat at all. How big were you cutting your resist? Did you use rapid mask?
From: LaZerDude (C_BURKE) [#41]
2 Apr 2005
To: Engravin' Dave (DATAKES) [#28] 2 Apr 2005
David,
I use an HP 1200 to print on the accuart2. The area surrounding the image needs to be darn near black with no light coming through.
The exposure unit I have is the Letralight (sp?) also and like UCONNDAVE said, exposrue time is 3 minutes. My rapid mask has sat in a box since the end of last October. Since I was moving I did not even bother to unpack the blaster, so shelf life is not the issue. I think maybe you just need a longer exposure time for the rapid mask.
I tried using the 2 mil and the 4 mil, neither had a blow out. I just could not get them to lay flat.
As for the adhesion, I did not use the misting methon, but that would work well for placing the image.
My wife Lisa who is much more patient than I, could not get the resist to lay flat either.
From: Engravin' Dave (DATAKES) [#42]
2 Apr 2005
To: LaZerDude (C_BURKE) [#40] 3 Apr 2005
Chuck,
The black border around my image was about a quarter inch on each side. After the exposure, I cut the darker part of the border to allow for an easier removal of the carrier sheet.
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